Llŷn Peninsula

The island of Anglesey lies to the north, Cardigan Bay to the south and the three hills of known as The Rivals (Yr Eifl in Welsh), mark the boundary of the peninsula to the east.

The house was acquired and restored by three sisters, friends of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the creator of Portmeirion. Inside, it gives a glimpse into what early 20th-century upper middle-class life would have been like.

Outside, there is a terraced ornamental garden with fine views over Porth Neigwl and Cardigan Bay. It is surrounded by woodland, which in spring is full of snowdrops and bluebells.

And, of course, in one of the outbuildings, there is a tea room run by a local family.

Approached down a dramatic, if slightly hair-raising, road there is a small museum that tells the story of the valley and those who lived there: 18th-century farmers, 19th-century quarrymen, and a 20th-century hippy commune until, primarily driven by the vision and passion of one man, Dr Carl Clowes, it was restored and repurposed as today’s Welsh language centre (and wedding venue).

You can also visit a re-creation of a quarryman’s cottage, showing how they would have lived in 1910, at the height of the quarry’s fortunes, before enjoying some refreshments and the view across to Nefyn and Porthdinllean from the Caffi Meinir.

The National Trust car park at Morfa Nefyn (LL53 6DA) is the best place to start and end your walk.

Caffi Porthindllaen (LL53 6BE), opposite the car park entrance, is a great place to have a snack at the start or end of the walk.

From the car park, you can choose either route - descend the steps at the seaward end of the car park and then turn left to walk along the beach or leave the car park the way you came in, turn right, walk up along the road towards and then over the golf course.

Both will bring you to the picturesque hamlet of Porthdinllaen, nestled right on the beach and the famous Tŷ Coch Inn.

There was once a plan to make Porthdinllaen the main embarkation point for ferries to Ireland but it lost out to Holyhead off Anglesey. Today, the only access to the village is on foot along the beach or from the golf course.

The Tŷ Coch Inn (LL53 6DB) doesn’t take bookings and can be busy in peak season. However, sitting right on the beach with the view across the bay to the three peaks of The Rivals, it is easy to see why it often appears on lists of the world’s best beach bars.

Where to eat:

Aside from the myriad of choices in Abersoch, there are some exceptional restaurants on Pen Llŷn:

Twnti Seafood (LL53 7YH) - a short drive inland from Pwllheli set in a converted barn run by husband and wife team Keith & Marisa Jackson, Twnti has been serving locally sourced seafood for over thirty years. Keith works front of house and Marisa cooks. Like the welcome, the menu hasn’t changed in the twenty years we have been eating there, but we wouldn’t want it to. We choose the same every time - mixed seafood hors d’oeuvres, grilled fish trio and share a poached plum crème brûlée to finish.

Tremfan Hall (LL53 7NN) - our top choice for Sunday lunch. Set on a hill just outside Llanbedrog with panoramic views over Cardigan Bay (only slightly marred by the Texaco petrol station below it!), the restaurant in this converted country house hotel is run by another husband & wife team, Sue and Nigel Skinner and is consistently excellent.

Porth Tocyn (LL58 7BU) is another country house hotel with a superb view (this time overlooking Abersoch) and another husband-and-wife team, Henry and Kelly Fletcher-Brewer, delivering yet more consistently excellent food. This would be our pick for an alfresco lunch out on the terrace. 

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