Alnwick
Visitor Guide
Visit an ancient castle and a modern formal garden. Sample authentic local flavours at family run cafes and elegant restaurants. Buy locally made ice cream and unique souvenirs.
A day in Alnwick:What to see and do in this charming market town
Alnwick Market Place ©Steve Knight CC BY 2.0
Pronounced "Annick" (the "l" and the "w" are both silent), Alnwick was our chosen base to explore the Northumberland coast.
It has easy access to the A1, a train station at nearby Alnmouth and is a stop on all the major bus routes (including the aptly named Coasts & Castles Connection). There is a Sainsbury's, Morrisons and Marks & Spencer and plenty of places to eat and drink.
Things to do in Alnwick
♦ Tour Alnwick Castle
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Alnwick Castle ©Mudge 9000 CC BY-SA 2.0
Alnwick is second only to Windsor as the largest inhabited castle in the country.
Indoors, the State Room Tour delves into Alnwick's history and the Percy family's 700 year ownership of the castle, highlighting their political impact.
Outdoors, the On Location Tour showcases the castle's modern cultural significance as a filming location for Harry Potter and Downtown Abbey.
The tour guides are funny, enthusiastic, and proud of the place.
Don't be surprised to see kids taking broomstick lessons during the Hogwarts tour.
Dogs are not allowed in the castle or its grounds.
♦ Visit The Alnwick Garden
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The Alnwick Garden ©Amanda Slater CC BY-SA 2.0
The current Duchess of Northumberland, Jane Percy, spent £42 million to create this modern take on a formal garden. Though everyone calls it Alnwick Gardens the official name is The Alnwick Garden.
Highlights include:
The Grand Cascade - a modern and giant version of an ornamental fountain.
The Poison Garden - a collection of hundreds of toxic and narcotic plants with information on their use and misuse. The garden is behind locked iron gates, entrance is by guided tour only, and the more deadly plants are kept inside cages.
The Cherry Orchard - the world's largest collection of Japanese cherry trees.
The Poison Garden ©Chris Morgan CC BY-SA 2.0
Alnwick Gardens Cherry Blossom
Also nearby, you can find The Treehouse Restaurant and Lilidorie, a fantasy-inspired play village for children.
The best times to visit The Alnwick Garden are late April for the cherry blossoms or June to July for blooming roses.
You need separate tickets for the garden and the castle.
Dogs are not allowed in the garden.
♦ Ride the Aln Valley Railway
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Aln Valley Railway ©Steve Knight CC BY 2.0
It may only be a mile and a half long, but taking a steam train on this heritage railway is a fun way to get from Alnwick to Alnmouth on the coast. It runs on the weekends in the spring and summer.
♦ Visit Alnmouth
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Alnmouth ©Alison Pope CC BY 2.0
Unlike Alnwick, Alnmouth is pronounced as it is written; this time, the "l" and "n" are not silent.
On Christmas Eve 1806, a storm altered the course of the River Aln, separating the village from its church and putting the final nail in the coffin of this once thriving port. Today, Alnmouth is a picturesque resort famous for its pretty seaside houses and expansive beach.
When the tide is out, crossing the Aln and walking up Church Hill is possible. From there, you can see how that fateful storm created a meandering estuary unsuitable for large ships.
Alnmouth from Church Hill ©BazzaDaRambler CC BY 2.0
On the sandy beach, the closest one to Alnwick, you will find anti-tank blocks placed as defences against invasion during World War II.
Anti-tank Blocks Alnmouth ©Tom Page CC BY-SA 2.0
Where to eat in Alnwick
♦ The Station Buffet Barter Books
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Barter Books is an enormous second-hand book shop in a converted Victorian railway station. As well as 350,000 books, there is an overhead model railway, log fires and, in what was the station waiting rooms, a cafe serving proper cooked breakfasts and light snacks and lunches. Our pick for breakfast.
Barter Books ©Mosey Travel
♦ Di Sopra Ristorante
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©Di Sopra Ristorante
This family-owned Italian restaurant in Alnwick town centre is less than a ten-minute walk from the castle. They serve simple, freshly prepared classic Italian food. They are often busy, though, so book ahead. Our lunchtime favourite.
♦ Grannies Tearoom
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©Grannies Tearoom & Delicatessen
The ground floor deli sells a wide range of locally produced food and is a great place to stock up for a picnic.
The cellar has been converted into a tearoom, keeping the original brick vault ceilings, stone flag floors, fireplace and coal chute. They serve delicious afternoon teas.
♦ Carlo’s of Alnwick
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©Carlo’s of Alnwick
Fourth generation, family-owned and award-winning fish & chip shop that also sells freshly made gelato.
♦ The Bistro at The Cookie Jar
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©The Cookie Jar Cosy Retreat
The Cookie Jar is a boutique hotel in a former convent situated a stone's throw from the entrance to Alnwick Castle.
The bistro overlooking the gardens serves simple, modern British food from locally sourced ingredients.
It is also a great spot for afternoon tea, which they even offer as a takeaway.
Where to shop in Alnwick
♦ Turnbull’s Northumbrian Food
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©Turnbull’s Northumbrian Food
This family-run state-of-the-art food hall on the edge of town showcases the best of Northumbrian produce from local suppliers.
Now owned by the fourth generation, Turnbulls have been trading in Alnwick since 1880. You will still find their original butcher and pie shop in the town centre.
♦ Notes of Northumberland
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©Notes of Northumberland
Notes of Northumberland sells eco-friendly, naturally-scented candles and diffusers, all hand-poured on-site at their workshop on the outskirts of Alnwick. You can also book to make your own candles.
Where to stay in Alnwick
♦ Nurse’s Cottage
©Sykes Cottages
We stayed at Nurse's Cottage, which we booked via Sykes Cottages.
It is a single-story, detached cottage with two bedrooms in a secluded walled garden set back from the street down a gated passage. Inside, it features a wood-burning stove. Outside, it has a small, beautifully planted patio area with a table & chairs for alfresco dining if the weather allows. It's ideally located five minutes from Alnwick town centre and only yards away from the entrance to Alnwick Castle.
Even though we stayed in Alnwick, we only devoted one day to exploring it. There are a couple of other attractions that locals recommended to us that we didn't find time to do that might be worth investigating:
♦ Bailiffgate Museum
An idea for something to do in Alnwick if it rains, this small independent museum is housed in a converted church and tells the history of Alnwick. It is located just across from the castle entrance.
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♦ Hulne Park
Extending over 3000 acres, the park has three way-marked circular walking routes varying from four to six miles. Locals advised us that their pick was the red route (4.7 miles), which runs out along the river to the ruins of Hulne Abbey. Next time. It is worth noting, though, that dogs are not allowed.
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