Seahouses

1½ miles off the Northumberland coast lie, depending on the tide, 15 or 20 islands. They are the most easterly point of the Great Whin Sill, remnants of a magma flow from a long extinct volcano. This is the same rock formation on which both Bamburgh & Lindisfarne castles were built.

In Autumn, The Farne Islands are home to Britain's largest breeding colony of Atlantic grey seals, in Spring to over 40,000 pairs of puffins, and all year round to two lighthouses and hundreds of terns, guillemots and shags.

Several companies offer cruises to the Farne Islands, including Serenity and Golden Gate. They all have cabins in the harbour where you can book tickets, though it is better to book in advance. We went with Billy Shiel's Boat Trips. 

Onboard, the skipper provides a comprehensive commentary on the history of the islands and lighthouses and the inspiring story of the courageous Grace Darling, all while navigating to the best positions to view the wildlife.

Even in summer, it can get blustery, so it's best to bring a windproof coat, and if disembarking on the islands, wear a hat to shield yourself from aerial bombardment (of various kinds) from the territorial nesting birds.

Dogs are welcome onboard, but if you are disembarking on Staple Island, you must leave your dog on the boat with the skipper, as dogs are not allowed on any of the Farne Islands.

On the cruise back to the harbour, you will enjoy fine views of both Bamburgh Castle and Holy Island's Lindisfarne Castle further up the coast. Despite its name, Lindisfarne Island is not part of the Farne Islands, being further north. It is not even an island; it is a peninsular connected to the mainland at low tide.

The best time to see puffins is during their breeding season, between May and July. You can also go ashore on Staple Island, where a boardwalk takes you right among the nesting birds. The National Trust owns the island. Separate charges apply, and you must buy tickets at the kiosk in Seahouses Harbour before boarding the boat.

The seal colony is there all year round, but pups start arriving in early October. Numbers peak in November, but rough seas often mean boats can't sail by then, so the end of October is the best time.

However, it is not just the puffins and seals that led David Attenborough to describe the Farne Islands as one of the best seabird colonies in Britain. Throughout the year, they are home to guillemots, terns, shags and shearwaters.

On your return to Seahouses Harbour, see if you can spot any of the eider ducks that live there. We're just about old enough to remember the days before duvets (or continental quilts as we then called them) when eiderdowns, filled with the soft down from the female Eider duck, kept us warm in winter.

Seahouses is the perfect starting place for an afternoon coastal walk. The Northumberland Coastal Path can be picked up here. If you head in either direction, it becomes obvious why this stretch of coastline has been designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Beach walk option 1:

Head north towards Bamburgh along North Sunderland beach. Seahouses used to be called North Sunderland, and the inland part of the village still is.

Depending on the tide, you can set out along the beach and return along the coastal path on the dunes for a different perspective or vice versa. The path along the dunes is a little more arduous than the beach walk.

Midway, stop at The Copper Kettle Tea Rooms (NE69 7BW) in Bamburgh for refreshments.

The round trip is about six miles and takes about an hour each way. 

Alternatively, it's ten minutes back to Seahouses by bus from Bamborough. 

You can take the 418, X15 or X18 from outside The Lord Crew Hotel, just across the road from The Copper Kettle (NE69 7BL), but check the times first.

Beach walk option 2:

A similar distance and duration but easier going is to head south towards the tiny fishing village of Beadnell with its curious harbour and Lime kilns.

Whereas the beaches north of Seahouses towards Bamburgh are smooth and sandy, this southern route is littered with rock pools. It offers the chance to spot various feeding birds and occasionally grey seals.

For midway refreshment, buy a snack from Bait at Beadnell (a pop-up cafe in the car park NE67 5EE) and eat it on the harbour wall, looking out towards the sweep of Beadnell Bay. There, you will often see windsurfers and kitesurfers putting on an acrobatic display or sailing boats putting out to sea.

If you would prefer to watch in greater comfort, The Landing (NE67 5FD) has covered seating outside, with blankets and a firepit if it's chilly and great views over the beach and out into the bay.

Alternatively, The Craster Arms (NE67 5AX) serves sandwiches, light snacks and classic pub grub for an indoor option. 

This 18th-century coach house has an extensive beer garden if the weather is good and a charming, snug interior if not. August bank holiday weekend, they organise a mini music festival called … Crastonbury!

After your snack, you can retrace your steps or take a bus back to Seahouses from outside The Craster Arms.

Where to eat in Seahouses

♦ Neptune Fish Restaurant

NE68 7SJ

It's not the prettiest place you'll eat in Northumberland, but Neptune's serve the best fish and chips. Ideal for a hearty lunch after a windswept boat trip to the Farne Islands. Five minutes walk from the harbour.

Situated overlooking the harbour, The Olde Ship Inn has a suitably nautical interior complete with log fires, stained glass, and walls adorned with more nick-nacks than you can count. It makes for a cosy place for a post-walk pint.

Established in 1843 this is possibly where the kipper was invented; although Robson’s Smokehouse just up the road in Craster might have something to say about that. Swallow's shop is attached to the original smokehouse. However, if kippers aren't your thing, you can also buy fresh, locally caught seafood or a fish pie to take home for supper one night during your stay.

The classiest souvenirs we found in Northumberland. Drift offers a range of coastal-inspired artwork, including paintings, prints, photographs, ceramics, and jewellery, from local artists.

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If you are still trying to decide if the Northumberland coast should be your next short break destination, we have collected our favourite photos from around the web to give you a flavour of what you can see during your visit. You can view them here…